Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Gramps.

This weekend was a very eventful one. Here's a quick summary.

-Driving on the left side of the road.
-Great ocean road.
-St. Patty's day.
-Melbourne in a night.
-Grampians National Park.
-Wild Roo's.
-Successful Trad lead fall.
-Unsuccessful Trad lead fall.


Melbourne

Will and I left early Thursday morning (4am) to catch a train to Sydney and then a Plane to Melbourne. Once we landed in Melbourne it was pure efficiency. We drove ~1 1/2 hours to the start of the great ocean road and then did some power "touristing" along the 3 hour drive. The ocean front was magnificent, the only down fall was the over cast weather.

Our car was .... exotic and practical (aka. Yellow and we slept and crammed everything in). Driving was surprisingly not to difficult. Just some habits were hard to overcome.
- The wipers and blinkers are swapped (binker on the right, wiper on the left), so there was plenty of "mist" action going on when I intended to turn right.
- Also, the rearview mirror being to the left of you was awkward, as was looking over your left shoulder when reversing.

Time for some Day One pictures:


Poise of a champion.

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Incase you forget.

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Lighthouse.

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Power-cling.

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The majestic Australian sheep (Australia is not flat).

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The majestic Australian Asian.

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This area was named after shipwreck survivors (forgot the name).

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The 12 apostles. (well... not all of them)

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The sun broke through the clouds and was shinning on the ocean... thought it looked cool

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Sun rays on the great ocean road.

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The London Bridge.

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Grampians National Park

After our efficient tour of the great ocean road we drove back to Sydney to meet up with some friends to celebrate St. Patty's Day. Needless to say, we didn't get to a bar until after midnight. It was short but fun.

Will, Kevin ( a friend of Will's who is studying in Brisbane), and I woke up from our comfy post st.patty's day car sleep and began our drive to Grampians National Park for a weekend full of climbing.

The rock quality and color were some of the best I've ever seen. It was climbing pornography. Lots of the climbs were mixed offerings and trad, with very few sport routes.

While on a trad lead Friday I took a fall just below the third piece of protection. The second piece of gear I place was a So-So stopper... which didn't hold. I took a ground hit pretty hard and landed on my back. I was lucky to have landed where I did and not sustain any permanent injuries. I walked away with a swollen and bruised butt/lower back and some nasty rope burn around my left arm (which is now infected and keeping me from climbing :/ ).
The fall really shook me up and it got in my head when leading after that. Lesson learned and it was a big eye opener.

Anyway, I wish I could of taken more advantage of the amazing climbing in the Gramps. The Tiapan wall is world class climbing, just a little to hard. Most is pure trad and rated at 5.12 or higher. If anyone reading this is a climber...here's the climbers porn I was talking about.

Tiapan Wall.

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More of the wall.

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Will leading a first pitch on the Tiapan wall.

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And now for the rest of the Gramps.


Sunnyday valley area.

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Will Warming up.

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Wall of Fools.

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This is where I slipped. Just under the 3rd piece of gear. Beautiful climb though, It traverses left from where will is and tops out past the roof.

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The last climbers didn't do so well...

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On the way to Tiapan.

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Candid...I promise.

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Kevin taking a break.

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Some Bonus Stuff:


Wild Roos! Kangaroos were everywhere in the National Park. I woke up in the middle of the night to use the restroom, and there were at least 10 wild kangaroos roaming around the campsite. Hitting a Kangaroo was always a worry while driving. However,We did manage to race one. He was standing in the middle of the road when we pulled up to him. He began to run down the road, so we pursued. 20kph....30kph..........40kph......50kph. It was so foreign to see a kangaroo at full stride (Hop?).

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Dinner of the week. Octopus. Yum.

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Until next time.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

It goes on and on my friends.

***Disclaimer: My lovely mother has been pointing out grammatical errors. I'm not a grammer fan. Sorry. Live with it :) *******

I'm in my third week of school but still feel like I'm on vacation. I've figured out how to juggle school around the surfing and climbing that has become the norm. If the weather is decent I either wake up early or rush home from school to surf. My roommate , Will, and I have also been planning climbing trips and recently discovered some bouldering/buildering in our town. I've slowly been collecting surf and climbing video footage, so hopefully I'll have some videos up soon.

Some things you should know about Australia:

It's not as sunny and dry as you'd expect. 4 days out of the week are usually overcast or drizzling (Maybe it's just the time of year). The weather is very unpredictable, and the weather channels aren't of much help.

I thought I'd share some of the slang/Australian I've heard so far. Most of these words are used pretty commonly:


Bodgy- Sketchy
Mozzie- Mosquito
Mackers- McDonalds
Mate- Dude
Bogan - and idiot, or someone you don't like in general. Usually involves them being drunk
Bottle Shop - Where to buy the overtaxed alcohol of Australia.
Thongs - Flip Flops (Not what you think when you hear a guy say "Im going to go put on my thongs")
Fortnight - Every other week ( they actually use the term often)
Scooner - Glass of beer
Piss - Beer ( getting pissed or hitting the piss means to go drink)
Heaps - A lot or very (They use this non-stop)




Now Time for Pictures:


Bouldering and Buildering in Newcastle. We've also heard of "heaps" of other places in town and will be exploring them shortly.


Will buildering an arch on Newcastle beach.

Will Arch 1


Warming Up.

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Our new climbing "Gym". The Arches.

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The signs didn't say anything about No Climbing.

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Our French friend, Jean ,working on a V4 which he named "The Arch of the Sea" (only in french).

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Will on "The Arch of the Sea"

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Pain on a V4/V5. Big move off of tiny sharp holds.

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Will making the move. Pain Face.

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After the pain.

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Project.

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More climbing:

We also went on a Mountaineering Club climbing Trip this past Saturday. I didn't take any pictures as it was in the same place as an earlier climbing trip. Will, Jean, and I got on 8 climbs of various difficulty, the highlight being a blank looking Australian grade 23 (~5.11b). The main goal of the trip was to get "certified" by the Mountaineering club so that we could rent gear and lead future climbing trips. The weather and views were fantastic!


More About Australia:

One fun aspect of Australia is the diversity of people. This includes ethnicity and political views. Australia is as much of a Hodgepodge of culture as the USA, if not more. Because of this there are plenty of political demonstrations. Last weekend I attended Mardi Gras in Sydney. This is quite different than the Mardi Gras in New Orleans because the Mardi Gras in Sydney is the largest Gay/Lesbian festival in the world. Everyone, young and old, was getting involved and dressing up for the festival... the city was out of control. Unfortunately (maybe fortunately) I didn't bring my camera, and my video camera ran out of batteries by the time the festival started.


Coal Harbor Blockade.

Although I wasn't able to take pictures of the Mardi Gras festival, I did manage to grab some pictures of another demonstration. Newcastle is one of the worlds largest coal harbors, and therefore is a hot spot for environmentalist's protests. Yesterday (Sunday March 13th) a human blockade of the coal harbor took place. Below are a few pictures of the event.


In the parking lot.

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Maybe the Biggest Coal Harbor?

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Free Kayaks for those willing to protest.

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Pumping up the crowd.

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Hippie Pirate and Rainbow huggers?

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And They're Off! Opposite ends of the environmentalist spectrum.

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Teach them while they're young.

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Running behind, but having fun.

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Until next time. I'm heading to Melbourne for St. Patty's day and then Climbing in the Grampians.


-Pieter